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BADDELEYITE
A mineral with the same chemical composition
as cubic zirconia. It is powdered, melted down, and mixed
with oxides to make cubic zirconia.
BAFFA
DIAMOND
Baffa diamond is actually rock crystal and not a real diamond.
BAGUETTE
A baguette cut is a stone (usually a diamond) that has been
cut into a long, rectangular shape. Baguette means "stick"
or "rod" in French.
BAIL
A bail is a triangular finding that attaches a pendant to
a necklace.
BAKELITE
Bakelite (also called catalin) is a dense, synthetic resin
that was used to make jewelry, game pieces, and many other
things. Bakelite was patented by L.H. Baekeland in 1907. Bakelite
plastic is made from carbolic acid and formaldehyde. Bakelite
pieces are molded, extruded, or carved. When one Bakelite
color is inlaid into another, interesting designs like polka
dots can be made. Bakelite was first used to imitate amber.
The bangle above is "butterscotch" bakelite.
BALE
A bail is a triangular finding that attaches a pendant to
a necklace.
BAND
A band is a ring that is made from a thin, flat, ribbon-like
strip of material (usually metal). The band can be unadorned
or decorated. Wedding rings are often bands.
BAND
A ring, (such as a traditional wedding band), that has the
same width all the way around.
BANDED AGATE
Banded agate is a type of agate with distinct layers of color.
BANGLE
A bangle is a stiff bracelet. Some bangles have a hinge (like
the Miriam Haskell bangle pictured above); others are solid
and must be slipped over the hand.
BAR AND RING CLASP
A bar and ring clasp (also called a toggle clasp) is a jewelry
fastener in which a bar can be inserted into a ring to fasten
a pice of jewelry. It is used to attach the two ends of a
necklace or bracelet.
BAR BROOCH
A bar shaped, (long, narrow), brooch which is often set with
gemstones or pearls.
BARCLAY
Barclay was a Providence, Rhode Island costume jewelry company
that sold many of its pieces through Marshall Field Department
store. It began production in May, 1948. One hallmark is an
artist's palette, reading, "Barclay Art in Jewelry." Barclay
is NOT the same as McClelland Barclay.
BAR CLOSURE
A hinged bar which fits into a catch and is secured
in the catch with a pin.
BARODA GEM
'Baroda Gem' is a trade name for a colorless glass stone with
a foil back.
BAROQUE
Baroque is a term that refers to irregularly-shaped stones
or pearls.
BAROQUE PEARLS
Baroque pearls are irregularly-shaped pearls. Baroque pearls
can be natural or artificial.
BAR PIN
A bar pin (also called a bar brooch) is a long pin that is
worn horizontally.
BARREL CLASP
A barrel clasp is a jewelry fastener that resembles a barrel.
The two pieces of this clasp screw together. It is used to
attach two other rings or links of a necklace or bracelet.
BARRETTE
A barrette is an ornament worn clipped into the hair.
BASALT
A dark volcanic rock, often with a glassy appearance, composed
chiefly of plagioclase, pyroxene, and olivine.
BASE METAL
Base metal refers to non-precious metals. Base metals include
copper, zinc, tin, and lead.
BASKET
A fancy setting with
a lacy or basket-looking appearance due to numerous holes
pierced in the side.
BASSE-TAILLE
Basse-taille (meaning "low cutting" in French) is an enameling
technique in which the underlying metal (usually gold or silver)
is carved in low relief (the metal's surface is cut away by
engraving or chasing, producing a sculpted surface). The highest
point of the relief carving is below the surface of the surrounding
metal. Translucent enamels are applied over the carved metal,
allowing the design to remain visible through the enamel.
The hue of the enamel changes with the depth of the glaze,
resulting in subtle variations in color over the high and
low design elements.
BATON
A baton is a stone that is cut in a long, thin rectangular
shape. A baton is larger than a baguette.
BAUXITE
A clay-like mineral, bauxite is the principal ore
of aluminum. It is composed of aluminum oxides and aluminum
hydroxides. Bauxite is used as an abrasive, a catalyst, and
a refractory for the lining of furnaces which are exposed
to intense heat.
BAYADÈRE
A bayadère is a pearl necklace that has many strands
of pearls twisted together.
B. DAVID
B. David is a mark used by the B. David jewelry company. This
Cincinnati, Ohio, company was started in 1945 and is still
in business. The company produces medium-quality costume jewelry
pieces (often studded with rhinestones and faux pearls) and
also now makes pieces from gold and silver. Marks from this
company include B. David, b. David and bd (on the diagonal).
BEACH GLASS
Beach glass (also called sea glass) is glass from old broken
bottles, windows of wrecked ships, etc. that has been worn
down and etched by the sea and sand over the years. This glass
is smooth and looks like beautifully sand-blasted glass and
has a beautiful patina. Pieces of this glass are collected
on beaches and often made into jewelry items. Brown, deep
green and clear are the most common colors of sea glass; after
these come blue, amber and aqua. Rare colors include pink,
red, purple, light yellow, and sea green.
BEADS
Beads are small objects, each with a hole through it for stringing.
Beads are made of glass, stones, wood, plastics, seeds, and
ceramics.
BELL CAP
A bell cap is a jewelry finding that is used to convert a
hole-less bead or stone with into a pendant. A bell cap is
glued onto the bead or stone and had a loop for attaching
to the piece of jewelry.
BELLE EPOQUE
The Belle Epoque (meaning "Beautiful Time" in French) was
the Edwardian period, the time of the reign of Edward VII
of England (1901-1910).
BELLY RING
A form of body jewelry worn in or on the belly button.
BEAU and BEAUCRAFT
Beau and Beaucraft are marks used by the costume jewelry company
called Beaucraft, Inc. This Providence, Rhode Island company
was started in 1947 and is still in business. Beau and Beaucraft
pieces come in a variety of styles (including many figurals)
and compositions; pieces are made from silver, goldplated
metal, gold over silver, and 14kt gold.
BENITOITE
Benitoite is a rare, blue gemstone that is found mostly in
the San Benito River in San Benito County, near Coalinga,
California (lesser quality benitoite is found in Mont St.
Hilaire, Quebec, Canada). Benito means "blessed" in Spanish.
This gemstones is strongy dichroic; although Benitoite is
blue when viewed from most directions, it appears colorless
when viewed in a single direction (the c-axis). Some unusual
Benitoite is blue, but pink or orange when viewed through
the c-axis. Benitoite is BaTiSi3O9 (Barium
Titanium Silicate); no one is sure what element causes the
blue color of benitoite, but it may be iron. Benitoite has
a hardness of 6 - 6.5, a specific gravity of 3.68, and a refractive
index of 1.757 - 1.804. Benitoite has a very unusual crystalline
shape - it is the only known ditrigonal-dipyramidal crystal.
Large stones (over 1 or 2 carats) are exceedingly rare. Benitoite
was discovered in California in 1907, either by Mr. Hawkins
and T. Edwin Sanders or James Marshall Couch (the story is
in dispute). Heat-treated benitoite becomes orange; these
stones are more expensive. Benitoite is California's official
state gemstone (since 1985).
BERGERE
Bergere is a mark used on costume jewelry made by the company
Herbet and Pohs, Inc. This medium- to high-quality costume
jewelry has been sold in stores like Lord and Taylor and Marshall
Fields.
BERYL
Beryls are a family of gemstone that include emerald, aquamarine,
beryl (green), red (red beryl), morganite (pink), and heliodor
(greenish yellow, named for the sun), and goshenite (colorless).
Beryl has a hardness of 7 - 8, a specific gravity of 2.6 -
2.9, and the chemical formula Be3Al2SiO6.
Internal flaws in beryl gems can be hidden by treating the
stone with oil (this is often not disclosed to the buyer).
BERYLLIUM
Another name for Glucinum.
BETROTHAL RING
A tradition dating back to as early as ancient Rome where
it was called an anulus pronubus, a betrothal ring is usually
a plain ring without a stone presented by a man to his fianc?e
indicating their intention to marry.
BEVELD
Any surface that is cut at an angle less than 90 degrees.
BEZEL
The bezel is the part of a cut stone that protrudes above
the edge of a setting. The bezel is also known as the crown.
BEZEL SETTING
A bezel setting is a way of setting a stone in which the stone
is held by a band of metal around the outside of the stone.
BIB NECKLACE
A bib necklace (also known as a collarette) is a short necklace
with flowing ornaments in the front.
BIREFRINGENCE
Birefringence is another name for double refraction. In doubly-refractive
stones, the light entering the stone is split into two light
rays, and the rays travel in different paths. These stones
have more than one refractive index. Calcite, peridot, zircon,
tourmaline, and titanite are doubly-refractive stones.
BIRTHSTONE
In the 1930's, the British and U.S. jewelry industries assigned
stones to the months of the year as follows:
BIWA PEARL
Biwa pearls are freshwater pearls from Lake Biwa in Japan.
These irregularly-shaped pearls are smoother and more lustrous
than most other freshwater pearls.
BLACK HILLS GOLD
Black Hills gold is gold jewelry that is made (but not always
mined) in the Black Hills area of South Dakota, USA. Gold
was first discovered in that area about 1874 by Horatio N.
Ross. E.O Lampinen opened the Black Hills Jewelry Manufacturing
Company in Deadwood, South Dakota in the early 1900's. Modern
day Black Hills jewelry often has a three-color (yellow gold,
pink gold and green gold) grape leaf and vine pattern. There
are many companies that make Black Hills jewelry today, but
by law, their creations must be made from Black Hills gold.
This jewelry is often (but not always) 10 Karat gold.
BLACK MOONSTONE
Black moonstone is a type of labradorite and not true moonstone.
BLACK ONYX
Opaque black colored onyx.
BLACK OPAL
Black opals are a valuable type of precious opals with a dark
ground color. They are luminous, iridescent, and frequently
have inclusions of many colors ("fire"). Opal is a mineral
composed of silica (and some water) and is a species of quartz.
The rainbow-like iridescence is caused by tiny crystals of
cristobalite. Many opals have a high water content - they
can dry out and crack if they are not cared for well (opals
should be stored in damp cotton wool). Opals have a hardness
of 5.5 to 6.5 and a specific gravity of 1.98-2.50. Black opals
are found in Australia.
BLACK PEARL
Black pearls (also called Tahitian pearls) are dark-colored
pearls. They are produced by the large, black-lipped pearl
oyster Pinctada margaritifera (also called the Tahitian
black pearl oyster), a mollusk found in the tropical Indo-Pacific
Ocean. Black pearls come in many colors, including many body
shades and overtone tints including gray (light gray to almost
black), peacock green (especially valuable), aubergine (eggplant),
and deep brown. The color of the dark nacre is determined
by the minerals in the oyster's diet (plankton) and in its
environment. Many "black pearls" are dyed or irridiated to
enhance or change their color; it is difficult to tell a natural
pearl from a treated pearl. Tahitian pearls are graded on
six factors: 1.Shape (round is most valued), 2.Size (the larger
the better), 3.Surface Quality= (clean is superior to blemished),
4.Luster (the more high-gloss luster the better), 5.Nacre
Thickness (thicker is better and longer lasting), and 6.Color
(overtones atop the body color add value to the pearl. The
most sought-after color is peacock green and darker colors
are more valuable Overtone colors include blue, pink, gold,
silver, aubergine, and peacock green).
BLACK PRINCE'S RUBY
Not an actual ruby, but a ruby-red color of spinel.
BLACK STAR DIOPSIDE (BLACK STAR OF
INDIA)
Black star of India is another name for Black Star diopside
(CaMgSi2O6), an opaque black gem with
a white, four-rayed star (an asterism). It has a hardness
of 5.5 and a specific gravity of 3.3 - 3.6. These stones are
found mostly in India. Stones are generally cut cabochon and
are not enhanced.
BLEACHING
Bleaching is a process in which a gemstone's color is removed
using a bleaching agent.
BLEMISH
A flaw, such as a nick or scratch, on the surface of a stone.
BLING BLING
Bling bling is an American slang term used to describe large,
showy jewelry, especially jewelry encrusted with diamonds.
The term was coined in the late 1990s by the New Orleans rappers
Cash Money Millionaires.
BLISTER PEARL
A blister pearl (also called a bouton pearl) is a pearl that
developed attached to the inside of a mollusk's shell. This
type of pearl must be cut off the shell, and is therefore
hemispherical. Because of their shape, blister pearls are
mostly used for earrings.
BLOODSTONE
Bloodstone (also called heliotrope) is an inexpensive type
of chalcedony that is green with red highlights (caused by
iron oxide). Bloodstone is porous and relatively soft.
BLOOMED GOLD
The term used for gold jewelry that has been immersed in an
acid bath giving it a textured, slightly matte appearance.
BLUE DIAMOND
Blue diamonds are rare, fancy diamonds and are quite valuable.
Diamonds are precious, lustrous gemstones made of highly-compressed
carbon; they are one of the hardest materials known. Diamonds
have a hardness of 10, a specific gravity of 3.5, and a refractive
index of 2.417 - 2.419.
BLUE GOLD
Blue gold is gold with a bluish tinge. It has been alloyed
with a mix that includes iron.
BLUE LACE AGATE
A translucent light blue agate with milky white banding.
BLUE TOPAZ
A topaz that is light brown or colorless when mined but turns
a vivid blue when exposed to heat. Blue Topaz is an alternate
birthstone for December.
BODKIN
A bodkin is a heavily jeweled, Renaissance era hairpin.
BODY JEWELRY
Jewelry designed
to be worn on or in any part of the body. While all jewelry
is technically worn on the body, the term "Body Jewelry"
is typically used when referring to belly
rings, nose studs, toe
rings, tongue bars,
and for jewelry designed
for pierced lips, eyebrows,
nipples, or any skin surface.
BOG-OAK
Bog-oak is old oak wood that has been blackened and preserved
by being in low-oxygen Irish and Scotish peat-bogs for thousands
of years. Bog-oak was carved and used as inexpensive Victorian
era jewelry. It was also used for decorative objects, bowls,
chests, dagger handles, and other decorative items.
BOGOFF
"Bogoff" and "Jewels by Bogoff" are marks used on costume
jewelry made by the Spear Novelty Company of Chicago, Illinois,
USA. The Bogoff mark was first used in 1946. Bogoff jewelry
is high-quality, was made in small runs, and is often studded
with rhinestones.
BOHEMIAN DIAMOND
A "Bohemian diamond" is not a diamond at all, it is actually
a rock crystal.
BOHEMIAN GARNET
Term for the red pyrope garnet found in much Victorian and
turn of the century jewelry.
BOHEMIAN RUBY
A Bohemian ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a ruby
at all).
BOKE
Boke is a Japanese term for coral that is rose colored.
BOLO
A braided leather loop worn about the neck and adorned with
a slide, (an ornament of silver, stone or other material fastened
so that it slides up under the chin), leaving the two leather
ends hanging.
BOMBÉ
The word itself simply means "curving or bulging outward".
In regards to jewelry it refers to a dome-shaped setting often
seen in rings and earrings from the 1940s and 1950s.
BOLT RING
A bolt ring (also known as a spring ring) is a hollow circular
metal fastening ring with a spring opening. It is used to
attach two other rings or links of a necklace or bracelet.
The bolt ring was invented early in the 1900's. Jewelry made
prior to 1900 or so will not.
BONDING
Bonding is a process in which a colorless bonding agent (like
plastic) is applied on and into a porous gemstone to make
the stone more durable and give it an enhanced appearance.
BONE
Bone is animal bone, carved to make beads, pins, bangles,
etc. It superficially resembles ivory, but has a less-complex
characteristic internal patterns and a yellower color.
BOOKCHAIN
A bookchain is a metal chain with rectangular links of folded
metal, each of which looks like a little book. This style
dates from the Victorian Era, when these chains held lockets.
BORON
A soft, brown, nonmetallic element. It is extracted with some
difficulty and in its reduced state appears as a substance
of a deep olive color, in a semi-metallic form, and in colorless
quadratic crystals similar to the diamond in hardness and
other properties. Boron is used in flares, propellant mixtures,
nuclear reactor control elements, abrasives, and hard metallic
alloys.
BORT
Bort is a term for industrial grade diamonds.
BOTANICAL GEMS
Botanical gems are minerals that form from plants or plant
material. Some botanical gems include amber
(fossilized tree resin), coconut pearl (a rare, shiny, calcareous,
pearl-like mineral that forms inside the coconut, Cocos
nucifera), and pearl opal (also called Tabasheer opal,
which form in injured bamboo joints).
BOUCHER
Marcel Boucher (?-1965) was a French jewelry designer who
started the Boucher company ( in NY, NY). Boucher began the
company: Marcel Boucher and Cie, which produced high-quality
costume from 1937 to 1972 (after Boucher's death in 1965,
his wife Sandra Boucher, who was also a jewelry designer,
led the company - in 1972, the company was purchased by Dovorn
Industries). Boucher had designed jewelry for the MAzer costume
company before starting his own company. The bird pin above
is gold-plated with paste and enamel. Boucher marks include
"Marcel Boucher", "Boucher" and "Marboux."
BOUTON PEARL
A bouton pearl (also called a blister pearl) is a pearl that
developed attached to the inside of the mollusk's shell. This
type of pearl must be cut off the shell, and is therefore
hemispherical (half a sphere). Because of their shape, blister
pearls are mostly used for earrings.
BOW
Bows are a common motiff in jewelry. The pin pictured above
is a sterling bow made by Trifari.
BOW-GUARD
Originally just a wide leather strap worn on the left wrist
to protect the arm from bow strings, it is now usually decorated
with a wide ornament of silver
BOX CLASP
A method of connecting two ends of a chain. One end has a
box with an opening which is notched on the top of the box.
The other end has a flat piece of metal which has been folded
over to form a spring with a knob at the end. The folded metal
spring slips into the hole in the box with the knob sticking
out through the notch in the top. The compressed spring holds
the two ends in place. It is released by pressing the knob.
The connection is usually reinforced by a figure 8 catch.
BOX-AND-TONGUE CLASP
A method of connecting two
ends of a chain. One end has a box with an opening which is
notched on the top of the box. The other end has a flat piece
of metal which has been folded over to form a spring with
a knob at the end. The folded metal spring slips into the
hole in the box with the knob sticking out through the notch
in the top. The compressed spring holds the two ends in place.
It is released by pressing the knob. The connection is usually
reinforced by a figure 8 catch.
BOX CHAIN
A chain in which each link is wide
and square so that it resembles a box.
BRACELET
A bracelet is an ornament worn wrapped around the wrist. Types
of bracelets include solid and hinged bangles, expansion,
cuff, beaded, charm, spiral, Yurman-style and, and link bracelets.
BRAGANZA
The Braganza is a huge gemstone that may or may not be a diamond.
This Portuguese stone is said to weigh 1680 carats (which
would make it the largest-known diamond), but it has not been
authenticated - it may actually be a clear topaz.
BRASS
Brass is a metal alloy containing (at least 50%) copper and
zinc.
BRAZILIAN CHAIN
A Brazilian chain (also called a snake chain) is a metal chain
made up of a series of small, linked cups.
BRILLIANT CUT
Brilliant cut stones have 56 facets, 32 facets are above the
girdle, 24 are below. Most modern-day diamonds are brilliant
cut since it maximizes the amount of reflected light from
the stone (its natural fire). The brilliant cut was introduced
in the 1600's, possibly by Cardinal Mazarin (1602-1661), a
politician and lover of gems.
BRIDAL SET
An engagement and wedding ring that come in a set and usually
match or compliment each other.
BRIDGE JEWELRY
Bridge jewelry is jewelry that "bridges the gap" between fine
(precious) jewelry and costume jewelry. An example of bridge
jewelry is sterling silver pieces.
BRILLIANCE
The amount of sparkle a stone gives off through reflection
and refraction of light.
BRILLIANT-CUT
A cut gemstone having 56 to 58 facets to maximize the volume
of light that is reflected from the inside and thus produce
the greatest brilliance. The most common shape of brilliant
cut stones are round, which is why this is type of cut is
sometimes called a "round-cut", but oval, marquise,
pear shape and heart shapes are not unusual.
BRIOLETTE
A briolette (or drop cut) is a pear-shaped cut gemstone with
triangular facets on top. This type of stone makes a nice
pendant.
BRITANNIA OR PEWTER
An alloy of tin, antimony, and copper with a dull silver-color.
BRITANNIA SILVER
A silver alloy composed
of 958 parts silver in 1000 hallmarked with the figure of
Britannia. Britannia silver was mandatory in England from
1697 to 1720 to prevent the melting down of sterling coins
to create silver objects.
BROKER
A businessman who acts for, or in the place of, another
to buy or sell merchandise in exchange for a commission. Also
called a"Broker" or a "middleman".
BROOCH
A brooch (also called a pin) is an ornament that can be pinned
to a garment. The pink rose brooch above was made by Trifari.
BRONZE
Bronze is a metal alloy containing (at least 60%) copper plus
tin and other metals.
BRUSHED FINISH
A brushed finish on a metal's surface is made by rubbing a
stiff metal brush across the surface of jewelry, slightly
reducing the metal's reflectivity.
BRUTING
Bruting is the first step in cutting a diamond. Bruting involves
shaping the girdle, which gives the stone its basic shape.
BRUSHED FINISH
(Also known as "satin" finish). A series of tiny parallel
lines scratched onto a surface with a wire brush or polishing
tool to produce texture.
BSK
BSK is a costume jewelry company that made mid-range pieces.
This New York company was in business from around 1950 until
the 1970's (?). BSK stands for the initals of the owners:
B for Benny Steinberg, S for Hy Slovitt, and K for Kaslo.
The BSK pin above is gold plated and decorated with rhinestones
and enamel.
BUBBLES
Bubbles are spherical or tear-shaped bubbles of gas captured
in glass stones. Bubbles can also be found in resins (like
plastics and amber), and much less-frequently in minerals
(like quartz, emerald, and topaz). Looking for bubbles is
one way to determine if a gem is glass or a gemstone.
BUCCELLATI
Buccellati and Mario Buccellati are marks of Buccellati, Inc.,
a costume jewelry company that made intricate silver-colored
pieces in ornate and modern styles.
BUD LEAF
The slang term given to the leaf of the cannabis plant, which
is the plant used to make hemp products. It is a popular motif
in modern jewelry. Also called a "marijuana leaf".
BUFFALO STONE
(also known as Ammolite, calcentine, or korite) is the fossilized
shell of the ammonite, an ancient cephalopod. It can be used
as a gemstone and is a gray, iridescent stone with flashes
of blue, green, purple, red, or yellow. (Blues and purples
are rare.) The color changes as the stone is viewed from different
angles. It is only found in southern Alberta, Canada.
BUGLE BEAD
A bugle bead is a long, thin, tube-shaped glass bead.
BULLA
A bulla is an ancient Roman pendant that consists of a rounded
container holding an amulet (a good luck charm). The bulla
is worn on a strap around the neck.
BURNISH SETTING
A setting in which the gem is set flush with the setting's
surface without using prongs to hold it in place.
BUTTERCUP SETTING
A deep six prong setting with prongs
that flare from the scalloped looking base resembling a buttercup
flower.
BUTTERFLY CHAIN
A chain composed
of very tiny butterfly-shaped links with
oval-shaped "wings". The butterflies
are linked head to tail at a slight angle
very close to one another so that the
wings form a long continuous spiral along
the length of the chain.
BUTTERFLY CLUTCH
A fitting
that slides onto the back of an earring
post to secure it in place.
BUTTERFLY WING JEWELRY
Butterfly wing jewelry is made from real butterfly wings.
A picture is usually painted on the wings, which is then enclosed
in glass or plastic and then mounted in metal to make a pin,
pendant, or other piece of jewelry.
BUTTON
A method of joining
two parts of a garment together by means
of a toggle fastened to one side of the
garment which is then pushed through a
slit in the other side of the garment.
The toggle, called a "button",
is usually a disk and may be quite ornamental.
Some buttons are worn strictly as decoration
rather than serving a functional purpose.
The term "button" is also applied
to round pins that usually bear a slogan
of some kind.
BUTTON
EARRING
An earring with
no dangling parts.
BYZANTINE CHAIN
An intricately
designed chain. Two pairs of oval-shaped
links are linked together. Each pair
is then parted to allow a large thick
oval link to be attached to the other
pair.
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