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Glossary by Letter:
J HOOP
A hoop earring in which
the hoop is elongated into
a shape resembling the letter
J rather than being circular.
JABOT PIN
A "jabot", (pronounced
zhah-Bow), is a kind of
ruffle worn on the bosom
of a man's shirt or woman's
blouse. The "jabot
pin" was designed to
hold the jabot onto the
shirt. It is basically a
pin with a brooch at either
end. One brooch is removable
so that the pin can be stuck
through the garment and
then secured by reattaching
the removable brooch. It
is a form of Art Deco mourning
jewelry.
JACINTH
Jacinth is a semi-precious
stone that is also known
as hyacinth. it is a lustrous
orange-yellow, orange-red,
or yellow-brown type of
zircon. Hyacinth has a hardness
of 7.5 and a specific gravity
of 4.65. Sometimes, topaz
and grossular garnet of
this color are also referred
to as hyacinth (this can
be very confusing). Hyacinth
is mined in Sri Lanka. Even
more confusing is the origin
of the name, which comes
from the Greek hyakinthos,
which refers to blue gemstone.
JADE
An opaque semiprecious gemstone
which is usually found in
shades of green, but can
be also be found in lavender
and rose shades.
JADE GLASS
Jade glass is translucent
green glass that is designed
to imitate jade.
JADEITE
A hard, translucent variety
of jade which is rarer than
the other varieties of nephrite
and comes in a variety of
colors such as orange, pink,
yellow, brown, blue, violet,
and black.
JAPANNED
A Japanned finish in jewelry
is when metal is finished
with a lustrous, black lacquer.
The Maltese cross brooch
above is by Weiss; it has
red paste stones and a Japanned
finish.
JARGON
Registered trade name for
a colorless, pale-yellow
or smoky-brown variety of
cubic zirconia from Ceylon.
JASPER
From the Hebrew word
"yashpheh", meaning
"glittering".
Jasper is an opaque, impure,
cryptocrystalline variety
of quartz that may be red,
yellow, or brown. It breaks
with a smooth surface and
can be highly polished like
marble. Varieties of jasper
include Fancy Jasper, Picture
Jasper, Poppy Jasper, Red
Jasper, and Striped (or
Banded) Jasper. Jasper was
once believed to have curative
powers.
JASPERINE
Jasperine refers to any
type of banded jasper.
JASPERIZED WOOD
Jasperized wood (also called
xyloid jasper) is petrified
wood. It is wood that has
fossilized - all the original
chemicals have been replaced
with minerals, making a
stone-like replica of the
original wood.
JASPER WARE
Jasper ware (also spelled
jasperware) is a type of
porcelain (high-fired white
kaolin clay) made by the
Wedgwood company. It is
made into molded cameos
that are made into pins,
pendants, and necklaces.
JEANNE
Jeanne was a mark used by
Mark Dottenheim of NY, NY,
for costume jewelry, often
figural. This mark was first
used in October 1919. The
gold-plated Jeanne pin above
depicts a bird's nest with
tiny pearl eggs.
JELLY BELLY
A jelly belly is a piece
of jewelry (usually a pin)
that has a clear lucite
or glass center. The Trifari
jelly belly fish pin above
has a faceted glass belly.
JENSEN, GEORG
Georg Jensen (1866-1935)
was a Danish silversmith,
ceramic artist, and sculptor.
Jensen's modern-style silver
jewelry is often adorned
with semi-precious stones
and is avidly collected.
Jensen's workshop grew to
have branches in Australia,
New York, USA, and Toronto,
Canada.
JET
(Also called "black
amber".) A dense black
variety of lignite, (fossilized
coal), that can be highly
polished and is often made
into mourning jewelry, Zuni
inlay, toys, buttons, etc.
JEWELRY
Ornamental adornments worn
on the body composed of
precious metals set with
real or imitation gemstones.
J.J.
J.J. is a registered trademark
of the Jonette Jewelry Compant,
East Providence, R.I. This
costume jewelry company
was orignially called the
Providence Jewelry Co.;
it was founded in 1935 by
Abraham Lisker. When Abraham
Lisker's brother Nathan
joined the company, the
name was changed to Lisker
& Lisker Inc. Production
was halted during World
War 2. After the war, the
company was called the Jonette
Jewelry Company. Marked
with the initials "J.J."
their jewelry is mostly
figural and novelty pins,
including Christmas pins.
The poodle above is a J.J.
figural pin.
JOB LOT
A collection of merchandise
sold in one group for use
in a specific display or
fixture.
JOBBER
An individual who buys job
lots from manufacturers
or wholesalers to sell for
a specific display or fixture.
JOB'S TEARS
Job's tears (Coix lacryma-jobi)
is a wild tropical grass
plant that has very hard
seeds. The white seeds are
used as beads in jewelry.
The seeds are dried, dyed
or painted, polished, drilled
and then strung into necklaces
and bracelets.
JOCLA
A small string of beads
at the bottom end of a necklace.
The beads in the center
of the jocla usually contrast
with the beads surrounding
it and may be larger than
the beads surrounding it.
JOMAZ
Jomaz (or Mazer) is a costume
jewelry mark used by the
Joseph J. Mazer company
(founded in NY, NY, in 1927).
Early pieces are marked
"Mazer Bros;" later pieces
are marked JOMAZ or MAZER.
They went out of business
in the 1970's. They make
high-quality jewelry like
the gold-plated earring
above with pearl and paste
accents.
JULIANA
Juliana jewelry is distinguished
by many beautiful, brightly-colored
glass stones of different
shapes and sizes (often
including speckled or "painted"
stones), with very little
metal showing in the pieces.
The well-made designs are
very feminine, and often
use cluster settings. Stones
were either prong-set (usually
with four prongs) or glued
in. Juliana bracelets usually
have five links and a fold-over
clasp (plus most have a
safety chain with a spring
ring). Juliana pieces were
marked with only a paper
hang tag (a detachable tag),
so positive identification
is not usually possible.
Juliana jewelry was produced
from 1950 until the 1960s,
and pieces are now highly
prized by collectors. Juliana
pieces were manufactures
by the De Lizza & Elster
company. A few other companies,
including "Gloria" (perhaps
made by G. Fox and Co. of
Hartford, CT) and "Tara,"
sold pieces similar to Juliana
pieces.
JULIANA-Style
Juliana-style jewelry is
unsigned costume jewelry
that resembles Juliana jewelry
(see the previous entry)s,
but the piece's origin in
undetermined.
JUMP RING
A small oval or round wire
ring used to link charms
or pendants onto a chain.
It is not usually soldered
shut.

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