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SAFETY CATCH
A safety catch is a secondary
closure (usually on a fine
bracelet or necklace) that
is used in case the primary
clasp opens, preventing the
loss of the jewelry. It is
often a hinged, snapping loop
that is permanently attached
to one side of the clasp (often
a box clasp), and, when the
bracelet is closed, snaps
onto the other side of the
clasp.
SAFETY CHAIN
A safety chain is
a secondary closure (usually
on a fine bracelet or watch)
that is used in case the primary
clasp opens, preventing the
loss of the bracelet. It is
usually a chain that is permanently
attached to one side of the
bracelet, and attaches to
the other side with a spring
ring clasp (or other type
of clasp). On the Miriam Haskell
cuff bracelet above, the safety
chain is located on the lower
left of the picture.
SAFETY CLASP
A safety clasp is
a secure type of closure on
a piece of jewelry. The term
safety catch is used for a
variety of these closures.
On pins and brooches, a safety
clasp often refers to a long
pin on a hinge that can be
held or released with a secure
clasp (often a rotating circle
within a circle).
SALT
A colorless or white
crystalline solid, composed
of sodium chloride. It is
found native in the earth,
and is also produced by the
evaporation and crystallization
of sea water and other water
impregnated with saline particles.
Salt is used extensively in
ground or granulated form
as a food seasoning and preservative.
SAN MARCO CHAIN
A unique kind of
chain wherein each link is
long and rounded, resembling
a puffed grain of rice with
a flat bottom. The links are
arranged next to each other
at a 45 degree angle and attached
to each other on the bottom
by sturdy flat pins set at
an opposite angle.
SAND CASTING
For hundreds of years
sand casting was the most
popular of all casting methods.
It still plays an important
role in the production of
large metal forms, (typically
Iron, but also Bronze, Brass,
Aluminum). Tempered sand is
packed onto wood or metal
pattern halves, removed from
the pattern, and metal is
poured into resultant cavities.
Molds are broken to remove
castings.
SANDOR
Sandor was a small
costume jewelry company founded
by Sandor Goldberger. Sandor
jewelry often has delicate
floral designs with enameling
and rhinestones. The Sandor
company was in operation from
the 1939 until the 1970's.
SANSTONE
Just as the name
implies, sandstone is a sedimentary
stone made of sand that has
been fused with some cementing
element like clay or quartz.
SAPPHIRE
Sapphire is a precious
gemstone (a type of corundum)
that ranges in color from
blue to pink to yellow to
green to white to purple (mauve
sapphire) to pink-orange (padparadscha
sapphire). Six-sided asterisms
sometimes occur in star sapphires
(caused by inclusions of tiny,
thin, parallel needles of
rutile). Sapphires are related
to rubies. Sapphires were
once thought to protect the
wearer from poisonous creatures.
Sapphire has a hardness of
9 and a specific gravity of
3.9 - 4.1. Sapphires are often
heat treated to improve their
color.
SAPPHIRE QUARTZ
Sapphire quartz (also
called blue quartz) is another
name for blue chalcedony.
SARAH COVENTRY
Sarah Coventry is
a company that produced mid-range
costume jewelry. The Sarah
Coventry jewelry company was
founded in Newark, New Jersey,
USA, by Charles H. Stuart
in November, 1948 (Stuart
had founded the Emmons jewelry
company earlier). He named
the company after his granddaughter
Sarah. Sarah Coventry jewelry
was sold at home fashion shows
until 1984, when the company
was sold. Both women's and
men's jewelry was produced
under the marks Sarah Coventry
(first used in May 1949),
SC (first used in Oct. 1953),
Sarah Cov (first used in Jan.
1960). Sarah Coventry jewelry
came with a "Lifetime Guarantee"
which read, "May be sent back
for repair to: P.O. Box 7899,
Warwick, RI 02887. Please
include handling charge of
1.50."
SARD
Sard is a semi-precious
stone related to carnelian.
This brownish-red, opaque
gemstone was once used extensively
for seals and was carved using
intaglio. Sard was named for
Sardis, the ancient capital
of Lydia. Sardius is mentioned
in the Bible, and may refer
to jasper.
SARDONYX
Sardonyx is a semi-precious
stone that is formed by two
layers, a red-brown layer
of sard and a gray, white,
black or brown layer of onyx.
Sardonyx is a type of quartz.
Sardonyx is frequently carved
to make intricate cameos and
seals.
SATING FINISH
A satin finish on
a metal is between a matte
finish and a brilliant one.
This semi-glossy finish is
done by making shallow parallel
lines on the surface of the
metal, reducing its reflectivity.
SATURATION
A measure of the
intensity of color inherent
in a gemstone. Stones that
are well saturated with color
are more valuable.
SAUTOIR
A sautoir (also known
as a rope) is a long necklace
(longer than opera-length),
often with an ornament (a
tassel or pendant) at the
end. Sautoirs were common
during the Edwardian era.
SCALENOHEDRAL
A fancy shape gemstone
made up of 12 facets, each
shaped like a scalene triangle.
Crystal points with triangular
facets are said to be scalenohedral.
SCALLOPED
An ornamental border
consisting of a series of
curved projections.
SCARAB
A scarab is a type
of beetle. The ancient Egyptians
used stones carved in the
shape of scarabs extensively
in their jewelry and other
decorations. In the 1920s,
after the tomb of King Tut
was discovered in Egypt, Egyptian
style jewelry became fashionable
in the West, including scarab
braclets and necklaces.
SCARABÉ
Scarabé is a type
of iridescent finish applied
to some dark glass beads.
The scarabé finish mimics
the look of iridescent scarab
beetles.
SCATTER PINS
Scatter pins are
small pins that are worn together
in small groups.
SCEPTER
A symbol of spiritual
and worldly power used as
a part of royal insignia.
A scepter is really nothing
more than a simple staff,
but the ones used in ceremony
are usually highly decorated
with precious metals and gemstones.
The topping of a scepter varied
in different countries and
in different periods. In the
Middle Ages two forms were
distinguished: a long staff
(baculum), otherwise called
rod, and a short one (sceptrum),
although their meaning was
identical. The long staff,
topped with a globe, is a
typical attribute of God in
Carolingian painting. A scepter
could be crowned with three
leaves or a lily, a globe,
a bird, etc.
SCHIAPARELLI, ELSA
Elsa Schiaparelli
was a fashion and jewelry
designer. Schiaparelli jewelry
is avidly collected. The understated
Schiaparelli earrings above
are made of a silver-colored
metal.
SCHILLER
Schiller (from the
German term for play of colors
or glitter) is an iridescent
or bronze-like luster occuring
in some minerals (it is also
referred to as labradorescence
when it occurs in feldspars).
This optical effect is caused
by submicroscopic lamella
(thin layers or flakes of
inclusions) contained within
the mineral. These layers
of inclusions can produce
a bronze-like luster, golden
iridescence, red color-play,
and/or a blue-green sheen
that flashes when viewed from
certain angles. This type
of inclusion can be valuable
(as in sunstone and labradorite).
Layers of shiller can block
reflected light, decreasing
the stone's brightness. Some
types of feldspars (like labradorite,
sunstone, spectrolite and
peristerite) and other minerals
(like hypersthene) exhibit
schiller.
SCHORL
Black Tourmaline.
SCINTILLATION
A measure of the
light reflected out by a diamond
or stone as it is viewed from
different angles.
SCREW BACK
A type of earring
attachment for non-pierced
ears where the earring is
tightened against the earlobe
by means of a screw with a
flat padded end.
SCRIMSHAW
A type of folk art
dating from at least the 17th
century in which whale teeth,
whale bones and walrus tusks
are engraved or lightly carved
with a picture or design.
It was a way for sailors on
long whaling voyages to pass
time but has become very collectible.
SEA GLASS
Sea glass (also called
beach glass) is glass from
old broken bottles, windows
of wrecked ships, etc. that
has been worn down and etched
by the sea and sand over the
years. This glass is smooth
(with no sharp edges) and
looks like beautifully sand-blasted
glass with a soft patina.
Pieces of this glass are collected
on beaches and often made
into jewelry items. Brown,
deep green and clear are the
most common colors of sea
glass; after these come blue,
amber and aqua. Rare colors
include pink, red, purple,
light yellow, and sea green.
SEAL
Seals were once extensively
used as a means of identification;
they were only owned and used
by relatively important people.
Seals were usually mounted
in rings or hung on a chain.
Seals are carved in hard stones
(like sard or jasper) using
intaglio.
SEASHELL
Any of a number of
shells of marine creatures
such as mollusks or gastropods
which can be used as jewelry.
See cowrie shell, olivelia
shell, abalone, ammolite,
etc.
SEDIMENTARY
Rock formed by layers
of material that has accumulated
and hardened over time.
SEED BEAD
(also seed-bead,
seedbead). Mass produced tiny
glass or plastic beads made
by slicing tubes into tiny
evenly spaced pieces. This
makes them oblong in shape,
rather than round, and flat
on the ends. Seed beads can
be strung together to make
a necklace or bracelet, but
are commonly used as spacers
for larger beads. They can
also be strung on a loom to
make beaded bands and belts.
SEED PEARL
Seed pearls are tiny,
round pearls that are less
than 2 mm in diameter and
weigh under 1/4 grain. Seed
pearl jewelry was popular
from the mid- to late-Victorian
era, when the tiny pearls
were strung on horsehair to
form intricate designs and
were also used as accents
on other jewelry.
SEFTONITE
Seftonite is a translucent,
moss green type of chalcedony.
It is found in South Africa
and North America.
SELENITE
Selenite is a soft,
colorless-to-slightly-colored,
transparent mineral. It is
a crystalline variety of gypsum.
Selenite has a hardness of
1-2 and a specific gravity
of 2.3 to 2.4.
SELINI
Selini was a costume
jewelry company whose mark
appears from the 1930s to
the 1950s. Selini jewelry
is usually intricate, well-designed,
and often decorated with colored
rhinestones and enamel. Very
little is known about the
company (If you have any information
about the history of the company
or the Selini mark, please
email me).
SEMI-MOUNT/SEMI-MOUNTING
A finished piece
of jewelry already embellished
with gemstones and/or engraving
that is simply waiting for
the center stone. Pieces are
sold this way to allow the
buyer to add a center stone
of their own choosing.
SEMIPRECIOUS
Any gemstones valued
for their beauty but which
are not one of the four "precious
stones", (emerald, diamond,
ruby or sapphire). Some examples
of semiprecious stones are
amethyst, aventurine, carnelian,
garnet, opal, peridot, rose
quartz, etc.
SERPENTINE
Serpentine is a green stone;
there are two types of serpentine,
bowenite and hydrated magnesium
silicate. Bowenite is a jade-like
stone (green to black) that
is sometimes used in jewelry.
The softer variety, hydrated
magnesium silicate, is translucent
serpentine has a hardness
of 4 () - 5.5 (bowenite) and
a specific gravity of 2.5
to 2.6. Serpentine is found
in the British Isles and some
other locations. Connemara
marble (from Ireland) is a
type of cloudy green serpentine.
SETTING
A setting is a method
of securing a stone (or other
ornament) in a piece of jewelry
(or other object). There are
many different types of settings,
including the collet (a strip
of metal surrounding the stone),
the claw setting (in which
prongs of metal hold the stone
in place), Tiffany (a high,six-pronged
setting), the cut-down setting
(metal is worked around the
edge of the gem, reinforced
with metal ridges), pavé-set
stones (stones set close together,
showing no metal between them),
millegrain (the stone is secured
by small beads [grains] of
metal), gipsy setting (with
a recessed stone), and many
other types (including combinations
of the above-mentioned methods).
Some settings are closed (there
is metal behind the stone),
while others are open (there
is no metal behind the stone),
letting light shine through
the stone.
S. G.
S.G. (or s.g.) is
an abbreviation for specific
gravity, a comparison of a
material's weight with the
weight of an equal volume
of water.
SHANK
The shank is the
part of a ring that encircles
the finger.
SHEKEL
A Hebrew unit equal
to about a half ounce. A common
estimate makes the shekel
equal in weight to about 130
grains for gold, 224 grains
for silver, and 450 grains
for copper. A shekel is also
a gold or silver coin equal
in weight to one of these
units, especially the chief
silver coin of the ancient
Hebrews. The approximate values
of the coins are (gold) $5.00,
(silver) 60 cents, and (copper
half shekel), one and one
half cents.
SHERMAN
Sherman was a Canadian
costume jewelry company that
produced very high-quality
pieces. Colorful or clear
prong-set rhinestones or cut
crystal beads (sometimes with
an aurora borealis finish)
adorn most Sherman pieces;
the metal is rhodium-plated
or gold-plated. "Jewels of
Elegance" by Sherman was written
on some carded Sherman jewelry.
Sherman produced jewelry from
1947-1981.
SHOULDER
The part of a ring
between the shank and the
center of the setting.
SHILLER
Shiller is a mispelling
of schiller.
SIGNET RING
A signet ring is
a ring that was used as a
means of identification for
relatively important people.
The signet ring was engraved
with a symbol (a coat of arms
or initials) identifying a
particular person. Some signet
rings also had intaglio-carved
seals. The earliest-known
signet rings date from ancient
Egypt, thousands of years
ago.
SILICATE
Any of a large group
of minerals, forming over
90 percent of the earth's
crust, that consist of silicon,
oxygen, and one or more metals,
(and sometimes hydrogen).
SILICON
A nonmetallic element
which is only found as a compound
with other elements in nature.
When artificially extracted,
silicon appears as a dark
brown amorphous powder, or
as a dark crystalline substance
with a metallic luster. This
substance is used in combination
with other materials in glass,
semiconducting devices, concrete,
brick, refractories, pottery,
and silicones. Its oxide is
silica, or common quartz,
and in this form, or as silicates,
it is the second most abundant
element in the Earth's crust,
next to oxygen, making up
25.7% of it by weight.
SILLIMANITE
Sillimanite (aluminum silicate,
Al2 SiO5) is a transparent
to translucent mineral that
ranges in color from white
to gray to brownish to greenish.
Sillimanite has the same chemical
formula as both kyanite and
andalusite (these three minerals
are polymorphs); Sillimanite
is the rarest of the three
(all three are used in high-temperature
ceramics, used in spark plugs).
Sillimanite has a hardness
of 7.5 and a specific gravity
of 3.2. Sillimanite is the
state mineral of Delaware
(since March 24, 1977); SIllimanite
is found near near Wilmington,
Delaware. Sillimanite is found
in Brazil, New England (USA),
and Europe; it is found in
areas of high-grade metamorphic
rock.
SILVER
Silver is a fine,
silver-white metal often used
in jewelry. Pure silver has
a hardness of 2.5. Other metals
are alloyed with silver (usually
copper) for silver used in
jewelry making. Silver tarnishes
after exposure to air (a thin
layer of silver-oxide forms
on the surface). Silver often
occurs near copper lodes.
SILVER 800
Silver 800 is silver
with a fineness of 800, that
is, it contains 800 parts
per thousand (or 80 percent)
silver and 200 parts per thousand
(or 20 percent) copper. Silver
800 is used for casting.
SILVER TONE
Jewelry finished
with a silver color with very
little appreciable measurement
of weight in silver.
SILVERY FINISH
Jewelry that has
the look of silver but no
actual silver content.
SIMULATED STONES
Any natural or synthetic
substance which is meant to
resemble a gemstone. cubic
zirconia, for example, is
a simulated diamond.
SIMULATED TORTOISE
A synthetic material
resembling the mottled brown
and yellow color found on
tortoise shells.
SINGAPORE CHAIN
A style of chain
wherein each link is composed
of a series of flat, diamond-cut,
interwoven concentric loops.
SINGLE-CUT DIAMONDS
Genuine diamonds,
commonly used in watchcases,
that contain only 18 facets.
SLATE
A smooth, solid gray
fine-grained rock that can
be split into thin layers.
SLEEPER
A sleeper is a small
hoop-earring made of gold
that is used to keep the hole
in a pierced ear open.
SLICED
A bracelet that is
the same thickness all the
way around and does not taper
at the edges; as though it
were simply sliced off the
end of a cylinder.
SLIDE
An ornament with
a tube on the back. A cord
or necklace can then be threaded
through the tube allowing
the ornament to slide along
the length of the cord or
necklace. See Bolo.
SLIDE BRACELET
(also called slide
charm bracelet) A slide bracelet
is a type of modern-day charm
bracelet made from stringing
Victorian era watch fob charms
together on a double chain
- the charms can slide along
the chains. When pocket watches
(used by men) and nceklace
watches (used by women) went
out of style after wrist watches
were invented, the charms
on the watch chain were removed
and then strung together to
make bracelets. Modern imitations
are made using modern-manufactured
charms.
SMOKY QUARTZ
Smoky quartz is a
type of brownish quartz that
has a smoky look.
SMOKY TOPAZ
Smoky Topaz is a
type of brownish quartz that
has a smoky look.
SNAKE CHAIN
A snake chain (also
called a Brazilian chain)
is a metal chain made up of
a series of small, linked
cups.
SNOW QUARTZ
A translucent white
mineral consisting of silicon
dioxide in crystal form. White
Quartz is basically clear
quartz with a high degree
of cloudiness. It is usually
uniform in terms of the color,
but has areas of more or less
opacity.
SNOWFLAKE OBSIDIAN
Snowflake Obsidian
(also called flowering obsidian)
is a volcanic glass that is
usually dark (black or brownish)
with white "snowflakes". This
glassy, lustrous mineral is
found in lava flows, and obsidian
stones can be massive. Obsidian
is formed when viscous lava
(from volcanos) cools rapidly.
Most obsidian is 70 percent
silica. Obsidian has a hardness
of 5 and a specific gravity
of 2.35.
SOAPSTONE
Soapstone (also called
steatite) is a soft, easily-carved,
fine-grained metamorphic rock
that can be green, brown,
or gray. This stone has a
greasy, soapy feel to it,
hence its name. Soapstone
is found worldwide. It is
carved into figurines, beads,
seals, bowls, pipes, cookware,
and other items - it has been
used since ancient times.
Chemically, soapstone is composed
mostly of talc, hydrated magnesium
silicate (Mg3Si4 O10(OH)2)
plus other minerals. Soapstone
has a hardness of 1-1.5 (extremely
soft - it can be scratched
with a fingernail) and a specific
gravity of 2.2-2.8.
SODA
Any of various forms
of sodium carbonate used in
making soap, powders, glass,
and paper.
SODALITE
Sodalite is a dark
blue mineral with streaks
of white, gray, pink, or green.
It is used for carvings and
jewelry. Sodalite is one of
the mineral components of
lapis lazuli. . Sodalite is
sodium aluminum silicate chloride;
its formula is Na4Al3(SiO4)3Cl.
Sodalite has a hardness of
5.5 to 6 and a specific gravity
of 2.1 - 2.3. Sodalite is
found in Brazil, Canada, India,
Italy, Namibia, United States,
and Russia.
SODIUM
A common soft, waxy,
light, extremely malleable
silver-white unstable metallic
element of the alkali group.
It is always found as a compound
with other elements in nature,
such as common salt, albite,
etc. Sodium burns with a yellow
flame, and is so readily oxidized
that it combines violently
with water and to be preserved
must be kept under petroleum
or some similar liquid.
SOLDER
Solder is a metal
alloy (a mixture of metals)
thatis used to join other
metals. Solders melt at a
lower temperature than the
metals to be joined.
SOLDERING
A technique used
in making and repairing jewelry
whereby two pieces of metal
are joined by applying a molten
metal which has a lower melting
point than the two metals
being joined.
SOLITAIRE
A solitaire is a
ring set with a single stone,
usually a diamond.
SORRELLI
Sorrelli (the Italian
word for "sisters") Jewelry
of Kutztown, Pennsylvania,
was formed in 1983 by Lisa
Oswald and her twin sisters
Susie and Sandy. Sorrelli's
high-quality, hand-made jewelry
features Swarovski Austrian
rhinestones and semi-precious
stones.
SOUVENIR JEWELRY
Souvenir jewelry
is made for tourists as a
remembrance of their trip.
The mother-of-pearl Eiffel
Tower pin above is a souvenir
of Paris.
SPARKLE
A measure of the
light reflected out by a diamond
or stone as it is viewed from
different angles.
SPECIFIC GRAVITY
The specific gravity
(abbreviated s.g.) of a material
is a comparison of its weight
with the weight of an equal
volume of water. Specific
gravity measures the density
of a material.
SPECTROLITE
Spectrolite is another
name for Finnish Labradorite
(a variety of plagioclase
feldspar). It is a fairly
abundant grayish mineral that
has brilliant iridescent flashes
of color (usually green, blue,
orange, or red) after it is
polished. The crystals are
transparent to translucent.
Spectrolite is usually cut
with a flat surface in order
to highlight the brilliant
flashes of color. Spectrolite
has a hardness of 6 to 6.5
and a specific gravity of
2.70.
SPECTROSCOPE
A spectroscope is
an instrument that is used
to identify gemstones. It
works by determining the light
waves that a stone absorbs;
different stones absorb different
wavelengths of light.
SPESSARTINE GARNET
Spessartine garnet
(also called Spessartite garnet)
is a type of a garnet that
is orange (it varies from
reddish orange to brownish
orange to yellowish orange).
The chemical composition is
Manganese Aluminum Silicate.
Crystals vary from transparent
to translucent. This relatively
rare gem is found in Sri Lanka,
Australia, Madagascar, Brazil,
Sweden, Myanmar, and the U.S.
Spessartine garnet has a hardness
of 7.0 - 7.5, a specific gravity
of 4.19 (relatively heavy),
and a refractive index of
1.8.
SPESSARTITE
A red to brownish-red
garnet composed of alumina
manganese.
SPHENE
Sphene (sometimes
called titanite) is a mineral
that comes in green, yellow,
white, brown or black wedge-shaped
crystals (sphene means wedge
in Greek). Sphene is used
only rarely as a gem (due
to its relative softness).
It's chemical formula is CaTiSiO5,
Calcium Titanium Silicate.
Sphene has a hardness of 5-5.5,
a specific gravity of 3.3
- 3.6, and a white streak.
SPINEL
Spinel is a very
hard semi-precious stone composed
of octahedral crystals. Spinel
ranges in color from red to
black to yellow, frequently
resembling rubies. Iron and
chrome are components of spinel,
giving it its color. Spinel
belongs to the feldspar species
and is found in in Burma,
Sri Lanka and Thailand. Some
varieties include: Balas ruby
(red spinel), Almandine spinel
(purple-red), Rubicelle (orange),
Sapphire spinel (blue), Ghanospinel
(blue), Chlorspinel (green).
Spinel is also laboratory
synthesized. Spinel has a
hardness of 8, a specific
gravity of 3.58-4.06, and
a refractive index of 1.72.
SPLIT RING
A tightly-coiled
ring used as an jewelry finding;
it can attach charms to a
charm bracelet or a clasp
to a necklace or bracelet
(it is like a miniature version
of a keychain).
SPRAY BROOCH
A type of brooch,
usually worn at the shoulder,
which is characterized by
floral themes featuring long
stemmed jeweled flowers and
long leaves.
SPRING RING
A spring ring (also
known as a bolt ring) is a
hollow circular metal fastening
ring with a spring opening.
A tiny spring keeps the arm
of this clasp closed. It is
used to attach two other rings
or links of a necklace or
bracelet. The spring ring
was invented early in the
1900's. Jewelry made prior
to 1900 or so will not have
a spring ring clasp.
SPRING RING CLASP
A very common kind
of clasp used for joining
two ends of a necklace. The
clasp itself consists of a
hollow metal tube in a circle
shape with a gap in the side.
The hollow tube contains a
small wire held in place by
a spring inside the tube behind
the wire. The wire can be
pulled back by means of a
small knob which slides along
the outer edge of the circular
tube. Releasing the knob allows
the spring to push the wire
forward closing the gap. The
other end of the necklace
terminates in a small ring.
By using the knob on the spring
ring to open the gap in the
hollow circular tube, one
can then place the small ring
through the gap and close
the wire through the ring
securing it in place and closing
the necklace.
SQUARILLION CUT(SQUARE
CUT)
A Squarillion cut
is a square-cut stone. This
fancy cut is relatively new
and is also known as a Princess
or Quadrillion cut.
SQUARE SETTING
A square shaped setting
with a prong at each corner.
SQUASH BLOSSOM NECKLACE
A traditional piece
of Navajo jewelry based on
an old and favored Spanish-Mexican
ornament which was actually
not a squash, but a stylized
version of the pomegranate.
A shape that the Spanish Conquistadores
used as buttons on their trousers.
The squash blossom necklace
is composed of beads resembling
squash blossoms placed at
regular intervals with a naja,
(crescent shaped pendant),
at the center.
SS
SS is an abbreviation
for sterling silver.
STABILIZED STONES
Stabilized stones
have been impregnated with
plastic to improve its durability,
stabilize cracks, and improve
the stone's appearance (a
dye is sometimes added to
the plastic - this is called
a color shot or color stabilized).
Liquid plastic resins are
injected into soft, porous
stone at high pressures -
the plastic fills the pores
in the stone. Turquoise is
often stabilized.
STABILIZED TURQUOISE
Turquoise is very
porous by nature which allows
it to absorb any pollutants
that it comes in contact with,
including oils from the skin.
Stabilized turquoise has been
treated by various methods
to reduce the porosity, thus
making less changeable over
time.
STACK RINGS
Two or more rings
that are designed to be stacked
on the same finger at the
same time.
STAINLESS STEEL
An extremely durable
alloy of steel and chromium
which can be polished to resemble
a precious metal and is virtually
immune to rust, discoloration
and corrosion.
STAMPING
Using a punch or
die to cut or emboss a sheet
of metal with a mark.
STAR
The Star Company
of Houston, Texas, manufactured
costume jewelry beginning
before 1930. Pieces often
include thermoset plastic
"jewels."
STAR OF AFRICA
The Star of Africa
(also called the Cullinan
diamond) is the largest diamond
yet found, weighing 3,106
carats (roughly 1.3 pounds)
in its rough form. It was
mined at the Premier Mine
in South Africa in 1905. This
enormous gem was named for
the chairman of the company
that owned the mine. It was
given to King Edward VII of
England for his birthday in
1907. The diamond was cut
(by Joseph J. Asscher of Amsterdam)
into many stones, including
the Cullinan I (530 carats,
pendelique-brilliant shaped,
the largest cut diamond in
the world), the Cullinan II
(317 carats, cushion shaped),
Cullinan III (94 carats, pendelique
shaped), Cullinan IV (63 carats,
square-brilliant shaped),
and many other smaller stones.
STAR OF INDIA
The Star of India
is a huge, blue, star sapphire
weighing 563.35 carats. It
is cut as a cabochon. This
gemstone was found in Sri
Lanka (date unknown). A British
Army officer brought it to
London, where it was cut by
Albert Ramsay around 1905.
It is now at American Museum
of Natural History.
STAR OF THE SOUTH
The Star of the South
is a the largest diamond found
in South America. This Brazilian
stone weighs 254.5 carats.
STAR GARNET
A "star garnet" is
almandine that exhibits an
asterism. Almandine is a type
of garnet that ranges in color
from deep red to reddish-brown.
STAR RUBY
A "star ruby" is
a ruby that exhibits an asterism,
a six-pointed star of light
(when cut as a cabochon).
The world's biggest star ruby
is the Rajaratna, which weighs
2,475 carats. The world's
biggest double-star ruby (with
a 12-pointed star) is the
Neelanjali, weighing 1,370
carats. Most star rubies today
are synthetic.
STAR SAPPHIRE
A star sapphire is
a sapphire that exhibits an
asterism in the form of a
colorless, six-rayed star
that reflects light. Star
sapphires are cabochon cut.
Laboratory-produced star sapphires
("Linde stars") were developed
in 1947 by the Linde company;
most star sapphires today
are synthetic.
STAR SETTING
A star setting is
one in which a gem is set
within an engraved star; the
gem is secured by a small
grain of metal soldered tp
the base of each ray of the
star. This type of setting
was popular in the 1890s.
STARTER
A silver coin from
ancient Greece.
STEATITE
Steatite (also called
soapstone) is a soft, easily-carved,
fine-grained metamorphic rock
that can be green, brown,
or gray. This stone has a
greasy, soapy feel to it,
hence its name. Soapstone
is found worldwide. It is
carved into figurines, beads,
seals, bowls, pipes, cookware,
and other items - it has been
used since ancient times.
Chemically, soapstone is composed
mostly of talc, hydrated magnesium
silicate (Mg3Si4 O10(OH)2)
plus other minerals. Soapstone
has a hardness of 1-1.5 (extremely
soft - it can be scratched
with a fingernail) and a specific
gravity of 2.2-2.8.
STEP CUT
The step cut is generally
used for colored stones. This
cut is rectangular to square
and has many facets parallel
to the edges of the stone.
STERLING
Sterling is silver
with a fineness of 925, that
is, sterling is 925 parts
per thousand (or 92.5%) silver
and 75 parts per thousand
(or 7.5%) copper (the copper
increases the silver's hardness).
Sterling is quite malleable.The
pin pictured above is a rhinestone-studded
sterling bow made by Trifari.
STERLING SILVER
Like gold, silver
can be alloyed with other
metals to improve its durability.
Sterling silver is the industry
standard containing 925 parts
silver and 75 parts of another
metal, usually copper. Pieces
made from sterling silver
are marked 925 to assure silver
content. Sterling silver can
be used to plate other metals.
STICK PIN
A pin with an ornament
on the top worn vertically
on a scarf, tie, or lapel.
Also called a "tie pin" or
"lapel pin"
STIPPLED FINISH
A texture formed
by a series of pricks made
with a steel punch.
STRASS
Strass is highly
reflective glass that is made
to imitate gemstones. The
original rhinestones were
quartz stones obtained from
the Rhine river. These stones
were cut to resemble gemstones.
STREAK
The streak of a mineral
is its color when it is in
powdered form. You can determine
the streak of a mineral easily
by rubbing a rough mineral
(not cut stones!) along the
surface of a hard, unglazed
porcelain sheet (this is called
a streak plate - you can use
the back of a white porcelain
bathroom tile). Even though
the color of a mineral may
vary, the streak color is
constant. Note: the streak
plate has a hardness of about
6.6, so it can only test mineral
that less hard than that (since
they must leave a streak on
the porcelain). For example,
the streak of chalcopyrite,
graphite, magnetite, and pyrite
is black, the streak of galena
is gray, the streak of cinnabar,
the streak of azurite and
lapis is blue, the streak
of malachite is green, the
streak of turquoise is white
with a green tint, the streak
of olivine, amethyst, and
tourmaline is white, and the
streak of hematite is red-brown.
STRIATIONS
Striations are grooves,
lines and scratches found
naturally in some minerals.
STRONGWATER, JAY
Jay Strongwater is
a New York company that produces
metal decorative objects (like
picture frames, boxes, clocks,
candle holders, napkin rings,
coasters, vases, bottle stoppers,
compacts, Christmas tree ornaments,
etc.) that are elaborately
decorated with enamel work
and Swarovski rhinestones.
These elegant pieces often
use themes from nature (like
leaves, flowers, and/or animals)
or Perisan designs. Jay Strongwater
designs a line of these upscale
accessories for Oscar de la
Renta. Jay Strongwater was
created by Jay Feinberg, who
began his career designing
jewelry under his own name,
but later named his company
Jay Strongwater (using his
mother's maiden name).
STUD
A simple style of
earring for pierced ears that
has a single stone (such as
a pearl) or metal ball on
a straight post with no dangling
parts. (See also Button earring).
SUGAR BEADS
Sugar beads are beads
that look as though they were
rolled in granulated sugar;
the fine grains on the surface
of the beads are in fact tiny
grains of glass (or plastic).
Delicate glass sugar beads
were made in Gablonz and Japan
early in the 20th century.
SUGILITE
Sugilite is a medium
to dark purple semi-precious
gemstone (it can also range
from pink to brown to black).
It is usually opaque with
a waxy luster (but can be
translucent) and often has
brown, pink and white inclusions,
looking like a purple version
of turquoise. It is usually
polished and not faceted.
Sugilite has a hardness of
5.5-6.5 and a specific gravity
of 2.75 - 2.80. This stone
is not enhanced - massive
stones are often found. Sugilite
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